*index of terms used in this entry
dulce de leche- sort of like caramel but better
las heladerias- ice cream shop
holiday-kilos- a term i´ve just made up to make me feel better about eating dulce de leche ice cream every day.
Until a few days ago the the strangest observation I had made in Uruguay was a dead chicken floating in the water. Yes, a dead chicken. At that point I was a little worried that my blog was to become a whole lot more boring for you guys. The thing is, Uruguay is making me very happy at the moment. In this country freeways are as smooth as a baby´s bottom, las heladerias* have ten different flavours of chocolate (italian, dutch, spanish, rich, richer...etc), meat is as tender you can imagine, and the heavenly dulce de leche* leaves you well on your way to putting on the obligatory ten holiday-kilos*. You could indeed draw the conclusion that Uruguay is keeping me sufficiently nourished. And of course I am getting some special treatment as a guest of Octavio´s lovely family. Anyone else with family or friends in South America let me know, I love home stays!
So back to a few days ago when I sat on the beach and spotted the dead chicken floating in the water I thought, well, this is the craziest thing I´ve spotted so far, I´ll write about this. Sometimes you just have to write about nothing because there really is nothing to write about, and the writing about nothing is the subject of everything. That was until Vanina had to call the fire brigade!
Take yourself back to a few nights ago. Myself, Antonia (O´s mum), Vanina (O´s sister) and a couple of V´s friends were sitting around in the apartment here in Montevideo when Vanina received a call that smoke was coming from her friend Martine´s apartment upstairs and that the dog inside the apartment was barking like crazy. We all ran to the window, looked up and sure enough, smoke was pouring out of the window! Adrenaline kicked in and Vanina sprang into action calling the fire brigade and Martine to let him know his apartment was up in smoke. We all ran down stairs to wait for the fire brigade, but soon enough Martine arrived on the scene and sprinted past us, ignoring Vanina´s pleas not to enter the apartment. Meanwhile, various neighbours began to poke their heads out of apartment windows to see what all the fuss was about and ten seconds later we heard sirens. About ten police officers wearing protective armour arrived, two on what seemed like scooters rather than motorbikes and the rest in tiny Fiats. I had to laugh coming from land of the Holden Commodore V8 police cars. Just as they arrive, Martine leans out of the window of the still smoking apartment and gives the thumbs up and yells, ¨todo bien!¨ This was even funnier, because of the smoke which was quite clearly still coming from the window. Was he mad? I really wasnt convinced todo was bien and thankfully the police also had their doubts and went upstairs to sort things out. It turns out that two eggs had been left to boil and there was nothing on fire... so in the end I didnt get to see the firemen in action...which is a good thing of course....
The next ten or fifteen minutes were devoted to yelling out to the neighbours still poking their heads out of their windows (including the loopy old lady in the apartment on the top left hand corner) as they asked que paso? or -what happened?
I suppose the moral of the story is don´t leave food unattended on the stove, be friends with your neighbours and get a dog.
yes, life in uruguay has been exciting.
but what about argentina, i hear you ask.
besides the fact the two countries are currently in conflict and argentinians are blocking the bridge crossings in-between (roadblocks really are ¨in¨ in latin america), argentina and uruguay share a few similarities. they have excellent tender meat, delicious ice-cream and dulce de leche. they also have what my san diego hippie friend (aka young tony) referred to as possibly a ´job creation program¨. Or maybe Henry Ford´s division of labour idea really caught on here, as it is evident in most stores.
Some real-life examples in Argentina and Uruguay:
-You pay one person for the ice-cream, and you take your receipt to another who serves it.
-Someone weighs your peach and calculates the price. That person calls out to the person behind you. You pick up your peach, turn around, place it on another counter, and they cashier tells you how much it is (never mind the fact you already know because the other person has just told you) and you pay the cashier. No the shop isn´t busy, you are the only person in there.
-In supermarkets, one person scans the groceries, another another puts the items in plastic bags.
-Want to buy a ticket to Uruguay from Buenos Aires? Go to the office and wait to book the ticket. Go to another line to pay for the ticket and pick it up.
Another interesting phenomenon has been the right of the cashier to prevent you from buying something in their store if you produce a large note. On my way to Uruguay I was in a pickle, as I needed change for the taxi who was waiting patiently outside for me to pay him. I went to buy rip off bread roll for 5 pesos wih a 100 peso note and the cashier said no! So I just stood there... another ten seconds, and I would´ve cried just to make him sell it to me. Not changing big notes is an annoying although quite common theme in the countries Ive been too and has led me to save a few pesos along the way. I guess I should be grateful.
And so, such is the life of a traveller. A lot of eating, a few comparisons, an occasional whinge, and then the question of where to next? Somewhere in Brazil, but I am not sure myself. Will let you know from wherever I end up....
Friday, January 26, 2007
Friday, January 12, 2007
roadblocks, dynamite and chorizo
hello from uyuni, south west of bolivia
snapshot
altitude: still over 3.5km
weather: beanie and scarfe required
keyboard configuration in this net cafe: sucks! no idea who the hell is responsible for this...so apologies for my poor punctuation.
you last hear from me from cochabamba. well do i have some more stories for you!
after i experienced some wonderful bolivian hospitality in cochabamba -from Nilda and Ramiro-thank you Leonardo- i took a bumpy night bus ride to sucre, constitutional capital of boliva, the only capital, yes, you are sure to be reminded of this on a number of occasions whilst in sucre. i arrived in torrential rain, and caught a taxi who had all but a piece of blue tarp between the rain and us... yep, no window. people who have been to bolivia have seen this a million times.
sucre is a pretty colonial town, laid-back, and home to the glorious chorizo, yum. and it was spicy sausage... yay! the most spicy food i have had in bolivia, where the only spice to be found is generally salt and pepper on your table.
i took a history lesson in sucre by going to casa de la libertad, where the bolivian nation was born. slightly freaky giant wood sculptured bust of the heroic simon bolivar can be seen here. very freaky.
next was a short ride to potosi
potosi is another nice colonial town with a plaza, church, park benches and street vendors.
upon arriving at 9pm i signed up for a mine tour 7am departure the following day. this is THE thing to do in potosi. i wrote a lovely, creative story about this experience in potosi but my computer mysteriously shut down and i lost the story. yes i did defend my consumer rights and refuse to pay for the hour, only paid for half. not that you care, but it just means that i stormed out, creative energy gone, and now i am in uyuni, quite an unspiring place, so you are going to get it in point form
I Dianne
- voluntarily signed a disclaimer that i realise the mine might cave in and that in essence i mightve died
-wore sexy gumboots, bob the builder hat, head torch, plastic pants and jacket
-bought some presents for miners- soft drink, coca leaves, dynamite
-entered a mine where safety conditions i am sure remain as they were in the 17th century
-crouched my way through the start of the mine, crawled some of the way, climbed down some rickety ladder to end up breathing hot, dusty air where i found some miners shovelling dirt in 17th century conditions
-clawed my way back up, meanwhile dodging coca-leaf chewing miners running past with cargo, still trying to breathe...that was a little scary, breathing dust and realising these men work in this every day. dangerous stuff to say the least
-blew up some dynamite...outside the mine!
that was cool. when our guide lit it, i ran! too much looney tunes cartoons as a child led me to believe i had approximately 3 seconds to run, but this i not true at all. we had two minutes, so there was lots of time to pose with the soon-to-explode dynamite. video will appear on blog when i find fast internet.
next... a hellishly bumpy rollercoaster to uyuni punctuated by two flat tyres-at the same time. i also had the pleasure of getting the last available seat on the bus... next to the driver! yes, this is another experience to write home about. i learnt about the bolivian method of vehicle maintenance.
-if the engine is getting hot, drive with the bonnet open
-smash the temperature gage a few times in the hope it can be ignored
-still hot? open the door to the engine whilst driving and ask the assistant to throw water on the scorchig hot mechanics
other tips include,
-dont replace cracked windscreens that resemble spider webs
-tie the door shut with a piece of rope
-play really loud latin music to mask the noise of the rattling dashboard, or get the helper to stick folded paper into the gaps and hold it down to minimise shake
needless to say, i arrived in uyuni with a pounding headache and a much better understanding of vehicle maintenance. no need to enrol into that tafe course when i get back.
yesterday came back from the three day tour of south west bolivia everyone does.
day one: salt salt salt! very cool salt flats
day two: flamingos! coloured lakes, volcanoes
day three: geysers! desert, coloured lakes.... cant describe. photos to appear soon.
also on day three i experienced my first bolivian roadblock.
Exercise for the reader-
imagine you are bolivian... you can imagine you are wearing a poncho if you insist...
-30-50 jeeps a day each filled with up to 7 tourists drive past your town
-your middle-of-nowhere village cobbles together some accommodation hoping to attract tourist dollars
-tour companies decide your accommodation is too basic and they are not going to stop en route
what do you do?
teach them a lesson and build a roadblock of course!
yes, buy a barrier, lock it, build some dirt mounds around the barrier to stop those darn jeeps getting past!
yes, another interesting experience in bolivia. our cook ended up having a talent after all and she cut the lock so we eventually passed, all 30 or so jeeps.
i think its time to leave bolivia. some man just asked me how much the engine for sale at the front costs. after three weeks it seems i must look bolivian. so i take my cue and will leave not-so-boring bolivia tomorrow morning. i am taking a train tonight to villazon on the border with argentina and heading off to salta tomorrow. my first argentinian meal is likely to be the famous argentinian steak every single argentinian traveller pines for in bolivia. it better be good...
snapshot
altitude: still over 3.5km
weather: beanie and scarfe required
keyboard configuration in this net cafe: sucks! no idea who the hell is responsible for this...so apologies for my poor punctuation.
you last hear from me from cochabamba. well do i have some more stories for you!
after i experienced some wonderful bolivian hospitality in cochabamba -from Nilda and Ramiro-thank you Leonardo- i took a bumpy night bus ride to sucre, constitutional capital of boliva, the only capital, yes, you are sure to be reminded of this on a number of occasions whilst in sucre. i arrived in torrential rain, and caught a taxi who had all but a piece of blue tarp between the rain and us... yep, no window. people who have been to bolivia have seen this a million times.
sucre is a pretty colonial town, laid-back, and home to the glorious chorizo, yum. and it was spicy sausage... yay! the most spicy food i have had in bolivia, where the only spice to be found is generally salt and pepper on your table.
i took a history lesson in sucre by going to casa de la libertad, where the bolivian nation was born. slightly freaky giant wood sculptured bust of the heroic simon bolivar can be seen here. very freaky.
next was a short ride to potosi
potosi is another nice colonial town with a plaza, church, park benches and street vendors.
upon arriving at 9pm i signed up for a mine tour 7am departure the following day. this is THE thing to do in potosi. i wrote a lovely, creative story about this experience in potosi but my computer mysteriously shut down and i lost the story. yes i did defend my consumer rights and refuse to pay for the hour, only paid for half. not that you care, but it just means that i stormed out, creative energy gone, and now i am in uyuni, quite an unspiring place, so you are going to get it in point form
I Dianne
- voluntarily signed a disclaimer that i realise the mine might cave in and that in essence i mightve died
-wore sexy gumboots, bob the builder hat, head torch, plastic pants and jacket
-bought some presents for miners- soft drink, coca leaves, dynamite
-entered a mine where safety conditions i am sure remain as they were in the 17th century
-crouched my way through the start of the mine, crawled some of the way, climbed down some rickety ladder to end up breathing hot, dusty air where i found some miners shovelling dirt in 17th century conditions
-clawed my way back up, meanwhile dodging coca-leaf chewing miners running past with cargo, still trying to breathe...that was a little scary, breathing dust and realising these men work in this every day. dangerous stuff to say the least
-blew up some dynamite...outside the mine!
that was cool. when our guide lit it, i ran! too much looney tunes cartoons as a child led me to believe i had approximately 3 seconds to run, but this i not true at all. we had two minutes, so there was lots of time to pose with the soon-to-explode dynamite. video will appear on blog when i find fast internet.
next... a hellishly bumpy rollercoaster to uyuni punctuated by two flat tyres-at the same time. i also had the pleasure of getting the last available seat on the bus... next to the driver! yes, this is another experience to write home about. i learnt about the bolivian method of vehicle maintenance.
-if the engine is getting hot, drive with the bonnet open
-smash the temperature gage a few times in the hope it can be ignored
-still hot? open the door to the engine whilst driving and ask the assistant to throw water on the scorchig hot mechanics
other tips include,
-dont replace cracked windscreens that resemble spider webs
-tie the door shut with a piece of rope
-play really loud latin music to mask the noise of the rattling dashboard, or get the helper to stick folded paper into the gaps and hold it down to minimise shake
needless to say, i arrived in uyuni with a pounding headache and a much better understanding of vehicle maintenance. no need to enrol into that tafe course when i get back.
yesterday came back from the three day tour of south west bolivia everyone does.
day one: salt salt salt! very cool salt flats
day two: flamingos! coloured lakes, volcanoes
day three: geysers! desert, coloured lakes.... cant describe. photos to appear soon.
also on day three i experienced my first bolivian roadblock.
Exercise for the reader-
imagine you are bolivian... you can imagine you are wearing a poncho if you insist...
-30-50 jeeps a day each filled with up to 7 tourists drive past your town
-your middle-of-nowhere village cobbles together some accommodation hoping to attract tourist dollars
-tour companies decide your accommodation is too basic and they are not going to stop en route
what do you do?
teach them a lesson and build a roadblock of course!
yes, buy a barrier, lock it, build some dirt mounds around the barrier to stop those darn jeeps getting past!
yes, another interesting experience in bolivia. our cook ended up having a talent after all and she cut the lock so we eventually passed, all 30 or so jeeps.
i think its time to leave bolivia. some man just asked me how much the engine for sale at the front costs. after three weeks it seems i must look bolivian. so i take my cue and will leave not-so-boring bolivia tomorrow morning. i am taking a train tonight to villazon on the border with argentina and heading off to salta tomorrow. my first argentinian meal is likely to be the famous argentinian steak every single argentinian traveller pines for in bolivia. it better be good...
Saturday, January 6, 2007
Any ideas?
I am frankly tired of trying to upload my photos with slow internet access.
Any ideas what I can do?
Any ideas what I can do?
Jan 3 Email from Cochabamba Bolivia
Hola from sunny Cochabamba Bolivia
Bolivia is great. I had the impression it was going to be really unsafe and tough here but it´s not at all. There are police holding guns outside every bank and many corners at night. Safe indeed.
I left Copacabana for La Paz and hung out for 6 days! Thanks Miguel for the tip, El Carreterro hostel rocked. We had a massive party on new years eve and every Argentinian and his dog seemed to be there singing and playing guitar or changa (some kind of mini guitar, don´t know if I spelt it right Wayne, sorry). After midnight struck we all went to the top of the building and watched the fireworks which went on for half an hour. What a sight! La Paz is in a canyon and people (as opposed to the City Council of La Paz) were letting off fireworks from windows, rooftops, balconies... it was amazing.Yes, there was none of that choreographed fireworks rubbish that goes on in Oz.
Other than that, I spent my time doing some educational things, like going to the Coca Museum to explore the various uses of the Coca Leaf both for indigenous people and the west - am I the only one that didn´t know Coca-Cola originally used cocaine ín it´s recipe? Interesting.
And besides the educational side of things, I spent many hours strolling the markets and stuffing my face. Market freaks and foodies take note AJ Nina Elli... and yes Selena, I do eat from the street stalls and have had no probs. I should tell you about the fancy French place I went to in Arequipa that served up bad fish (maybe I´ve already mentioned it?). Nothing against you Frenchies out there.
Prices are also glorious on the pocket.
One peach milkshake- 50c
One night´s accommodation- $3
One dinner serving of Pique, Bolivian dish- $1.20
Prices quoted are in $AUD including GST
So after bumming around in La Paz I am now in Cochabamba. It´s much warmer here thankfully, La Paz is a bit chilli. I was sleeping with two pairs of paints, three tops, my beanie, scarfe and socks. Not even a midnight police raid at our hostel could warm things up, although it was very exciting. Yes, it was quite an experience La Paz. And I haven´t even mentioned riding on the back of a ute down a hill with 7 others from the hostel... and then it started to rain!
Cochabamba is also flat, thankfully. Walking up and down hills in La Paz at nearly 4km about sea level was almost enough to kill me. They also have a very lively street buzz at night, although I dare say that could be those spooky Christmas lights that seem to emit some a very haunting version of some unrecognisable christmas carol. Last night in the plaza featured a dancing Michael Jackson who mimed and danced, yes, Minni Vanilli style. Also featured was Capoeira (awesome Brazilian dance-martial art) and some crazy comedian who made fun of his audience. Buy some popcorn from the street vendor for 1 boliviano and you are set for a night of entertainment in Cochabamba. So after Arequipa I went to Puno, Copacabana, La Paz and now Cochabamba. Tomorrow I´ll head off to Sucre which is meant to be nice, although I am not looking forward to 10 hours in a bus. Ouch. Thanks for your emails too, I do read them and will try to reply to every single one, eventually.
Love from Bolivia
Dianne
Bolivia is great. I had the impression it was going to be really unsafe and tough here but it´s not at all. There are police holding guns outside every bank and many corners at night. Safe indeed.
I left Copacabana for La Paz and hung out for 6 days! Thanks Miguel for the tip, El Carreterro hostel rocked. We had a massive party on new years eve and every Argentinian and his dog seemed to be there singing and playing guitar or changa (some kind of mini guitar, don´t know if I spelt it right Wayne, sorry). After midnight struck we all went to the top of the building and watched the fireworks which went on for half an hour. What a sight! La Paz is in a canyon and people (as opposed to the City Council of La Paz) were letting off fireworks from windows, rooftops, balconies... it was amazing.Yes, there was none of that choreographed fireworks rubbish that goes on in Oz.
Other than that, I spent my time doing some educational things, like going to the Coca Museum to explore the various uses of the Coca Leaf both for indigenous people and the west - am I the only one that didn´t know Coca-Cola originally used cocaine ín it´s recipe? Interesting.
And besides the educational side of things, I spent many hours strolling the markets and stuffing my face. Market freaks and foodies take note AJ Nina Elli... and yes Selena, I do eat from the street stalls and have had no probs. I should tell you about the fancy French place I went to in Arequipa that served up bad fish (maybe I´ve already mentioned it?). Nothing against you Frenchies out there.
Prices are also glorious on the pocket.
One peach milkshake- 50c
One night´s accommodation- $3
One dinner serving of Pique, Bolivian dish- $1.20
Prices quoted are in $AUD including GST
So after bumming around in La Paz I am now in Cochabamba. It´s much warmer here thankfully, La Paz is a bit chilli. I was sleeping with two pairs of paints, three tops, my beanie, scarfe and socks. Not even a midnight police raid at our hostel could warm things up, although it was very exciting. Yes, it was quite an experience La Paz. And I haven´t even mentioned riding on the back of a ute down a hill with 7 others from the hostel... and then it started to rain!
Cochabamba is also flat, thankfully. Walking up and down hills in La Paz at nearly 4km about sea level was almost enough to kill me. They also have a very lively street buzz at night, although I dare say that could be those spooky Christmas lights that seem to emit some a very haunting version of some unrecognisable christmas carol. Last night in the plaza featured a dancing Michael Jackson who mimed and danced, yes, Minni Vanilli style. Also featured was Capoeira (awesome Brazilian dance-martial art) and some crazy comedian who made fun of his audience. Buy some popcorn from the street vendor for 1 boliviano and you are set for a night of entertainment in Cochabamba. So after Arequipa I went to Puno, Copacabana, La Paz and now Cochabamba. Tomorrow I´ll head off to Sucre which is meant to be nice, although I am not looking forward to 10 hours in a bus. Ouch. Thanks for your emails too, I do read them and will try to reply to every single one, eventually.
Love from Bolivia
Dianne
Email December 20 2006 blabbing about Vancouver, Cuba, Peru
Buenos dias
Well here i am in Arequipa, Peru having a grand old time.
Vancouver was great. Spent a lovely time with Elise and her family and partied with Tash and Calliope for their birthdays. Went to Whistler, rode around Stanley Park, went to parties... the pub... was a very nice chilled out two weeks. And the last two days were extremely chilled with snow in Vancouver city.
Canadians are indeed nice. They are so nice in fact that drivers will stop traffic to allow you to cross the road, i am NOT JOKING. This was actually quite disturbing. But then it wasn´t as disturbing as seeing full cooperation as two lanes merged to one on the great three-lane bridge which connects Vancouver to north Vancouver.Then off i went to Cuba, and Air Canada did give me a complimentary tourist card which was nice. all that worrying for nothing about getting a visa.
it was winter in cuba but perfect for me at 28 degrees, especially coming from snow in Vancouver.
i was there for Fidel´s birthday party which was cool. i have some very cool photos of the hundreds of buses and coaches used to transport people from all over the country to the parade. i´ll try to post some on my blog soon, i don´t have the cds with me at the mo´. sorry. yes i have been lazy, i´m on holiday.
so how was cuba? havana was crazy, hectic, frenetic and crumbling. outside of havana, muy tranquilo... relaxing, chilled. mojitos are good, rum is cheap, everything else is expensive. hospitality was sensational at jose ricardo´s casa. let me know ifyou are going to cuba and i´ll let you know where to stay. you want more on cuba? too much happened, too much to tell, will try to post some pics though... and i´ve gotta do some sightseeing so i´m finishing right there.
next was peru. one day in lima, then it was off to cusco. spent a day with altitude sickness, took tablets for the sickness, then had an allergic reaction, thought i was gonna die, saw a doctor, who gave me more pills, and then i felt better, did the inca trail, was the best thing i did in my life while travelling, recommend it to everyone to likes a challenge.
now i´ve left cusco, will spend the next two days on a tour of the volcanoes and colca canyon.
will spend christmas in bolivia on the shores of lake titicaca.
besides needing to sightsee the guy running this internet cafe is driving me crazy with his drumming, i think he wants to be a rock star.
love and best wishes for christmas and the new year.
Dianne in south america
Well here i am in Arequipa, Peru having a grand old time.
Vancouver was great. Spent a lovely time with Elise and her family and partied with Tash and Calliope for their birthdays. Went to Whistler, rode around Stanley Park, went to parties... the pub... was a very nice chilled out two weeks. And the last two days were extremely chilled with snow in Vancouver city.
Canadians are indeed nice. They are so nice in fact that drivers will stop traffic to allow you to cross the road, i am NOT JOKING. This was actually quite disturbing. But then it wasn´t as disturbing as seeing full cooperation as two lanes merged to one on the great three-lane bridge which connects Vancouver to north Vancouver.
it was winter in cuba but perfect for me at 28 degrees, especially coming from snow in Vancouver.
i was there for Fidel´s birthday party which was cool. i have some very cool photos of the hundreds of buses and coaches used to transport people from all over the country to the parade. i´ll try to post some on my blog soon, i don´t have the cds with me at the mo´. sorry. yes i have been lazy, i´m on holiday.
so how was cuba? havana was crazy, hectic, frenetic and crumbling. outside of havana, muy tranquilo... relaxing, chilled. mojitos are good, rum is cheap, everything else is expensive. hospitality was sensational at jose ricardo´s casa. let me know ifyou are going to cuba and i´ll let you know where to stay. you want more on cuba? too much happened, too much to tell, will try to post some pics though... and i´ve gotta do some sightseeing so i´m finishing right there.
next was peru. one day in lima, then it was off to cusco. spent a day with altitude sickness, took tablets for the sickness, then had an allergic reaction, thought i was gonna die, saw a doctor, who gave me more pills, and then i felt better, did the inca trail, was the best thing i did in my life while travelling, recommend it to everyone to likes a challenge.
now i´ve left cusco, will spend the next two days on a tour of the volcanoes and colca canyon.
will spend christmas in bolivia on the shores of lake titicaca.
besides needing to sightsee the guy running this internet cafe is driving me crazy with his drumming, i think he wants to be a rock star.
love and best wishes for christmas and the new year.
Dianne in south america
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